Need to go somewhere in Palestine? Here’s how

Guest contribution by Deena Kishawi

Need to go somewhere?
Here’s how.

Walk into the street, about a third of the way in,
Put your arm out.
Within moments, taxis will swarm around you,
Honking to you.
The window is down so you tell the driver where you need to go.
Sheikh Ridwaan.
He tells you he’s going in the opposite direction.
You say thank you and exchange a final salaam.

You repeat the process.
This time, the taxi is going in your direction.
You get in, squish yourself next to the lady with a little boy sitting on her lap.
You take out a shekel and tell the driver “Itfadal
He extends his hand.

“Enjoy the ride” he says.

You have a long ride to Sheikh Ridwaan.
You open the window a bit to let the Gaza breeze in.
The smell of the beach,
The sand,
The charcoal and burning wood from the grilled corn on the side of the road,
The smoke from the driver’s cigarette,
All penetrate the cab’s cabin. [Read more...]

Profile: Khalil Kishawi, earning a Master’s at a taxi stand

‘Palestinian Profiles in America’ is a project committed to exploring and documenting the personal histories of Palestinian Americans from all walks of life. In order to best examine the Palestinian condition in the United States, it is absolutely necessary to share the stories of refugees, blue-collar workers, newlyweds, and anyone in between. To suggest a story or individual to be profiled, please use the contact form here.

Khalil Kishawi shares his personal history from when he first worked in Libyan oilfields to when he worked dayshifts as an accountant and nightshifts as a taxi driver.

Standing at the six-cornered intersection where Elston Avenue crosses Western and Diversey is a woman in her mid-30s patiently waiting to cross the street. But the virtually imperceptible way her eyes darted from car to car tell veteran taxi driver Khalil Kishawi she is actually trying to flag down a cab.

This ability to read pedestrians is a skill he had developed when he first began driving in the mid-1980s. Three decades and a combination of careers later, Khalil lets me in on some of his most personal experiences living far from his home in occupied Palestine.

Khalil Kishawi is one of nine siblings born to Abdelrahman and Mozayyann in the dense Remal neighborhood of Gaza City. Born just a year and a half after Israel’s unilateral declaration of independence in 1948, he watched Gaza’s landscape transform from colorful economic and cultural prosperity to the drab green of military fatigues surrounding the territory.

For the first seventeen years of his life, Khalil bore witness to the harsh realities of foreign occupation. Control of Gaza transferred from the British to the Egyptians and then to the Israelis. His prospects for a stable future seemed to slip away after each subsequent military operation so, in 1967, he left Gaza and joined three of his older siblings in Cairo.

Khalil graduated from Cairo University with a degree in commerce (equivalent to a Bachelor’s degree in accounting) four years later. Intending to become entirely self-sufficient and to help support his younger siblings back home in Gaza, he traveled to Libya to work for Esso, known today as the Exxon Oil Company in Brega. For just under a year, Khalil handled the oil terminal’s inventory and accounting. He would work for two weeks straight before taking a weeklong vacation outside of the industrial settlement and seaport.

Eventually, Khalil moved on to work as an accountant for Libya’s state television network. Himself being Palestinian, he felt particularly sensitive to the way the television network unabashedly colluded with the Libyan government in exploiting the Palestinian struggle for its own political advancement. When Muammar Gaddafi’s 1977 speech was met with a tremendously low turnout, he contacted Khalil’s managing director and demanded the network broadcast footage from an old and more lively rally in which he championed, among other things, the Palestinian cause.

No longer capable of tolerating the network’s attempts to deceive the public in the government’s favor, Khalil quickly resigned and left the country for the United Kingdom. [Read more...]

Photo preview: A profile of Palestinians in America

In the coming weeks, a modest but hopefully powerful project will debut on this blog. Racial profiling has given rise to some of the most contemptible misconceptions history has ever seen. So in an effort to shift the tides, I want to profile in a different way.

For this project, I’ll be focusing exclusively on Palestinians in America. I’m hoping to tell their stories—not necessarily the historical or political ones we’re already well acquainted with but the ones they live today. Whether they work as barbers or actors, lawyers or full-time volunteers, every Palestinian has a story to tell. Through photos and through words, my wish is to relate these stories to you.

This project began months ago when I started paying attention to stereotypes surrounding cab drivers in Chicago. Having very personal connections to the taxi cab industry meant that I had the connections I’d need to report from the inside and to shatter the misconceptions surrounding cabbies, specifically Palestinian ones.

But what began as a very limited idea morphed into an all-inclusive one. Now it’s an open-ended project. Only one aim is clear: to examine the Palestinian condition in America. I have no set course for fulfilling this goal, so in a sense, this is mostly uncharted territory for me. But whether or not it’s uncharted territory for you, I hope you’ll join me in experiencing Palestinian culture and tradition through everyday Palestinians working hard to earn a living and even harder to make the best of life in America.

Here’s a small photo preview of the first ‘profile’ which I hope to release soon.


Khalil, a Certified Public Accountant from Gaza City, points out federal buildings in downtown Chicago as he drives his taxi on a busy Saturday afternoon.


After an hour of driving through downtown streets, Khalil heads towards the northwest side of Chicago. [Read more...]

The Palestine Entries: To Cairo we go

// Entry #3

After waiting seven long years, I was finally on my way to the Gaza Strip.

On Friday evening, a group of family friends kindly escorted my family and I to Chicago’s O’Hare International Airport where we were to check in and begin the first leg of the long journey ahead of us. Our luggage was tagged and collected and we made our way to the terminal to board our flight to Frankfurt, Germany.

While waiting in line to board the plane, an elderly man recognized my mother’s headscarf and gave his Salam. He revealed his Moroccan background during our exchange of pleasantries and eventually asked where we were from and where we were heading. He jubilantly wished us luck and expressed his admiration of the strong-willed people of Gaza. It was more than the generic ‘bless the Gazan people’ sentiment; he felt a genuine connection to the Palestinian land as though he too had been estranged from it. He told me to send his regards, to stay safe, and to remember that we are all one people. [Read more...]

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