The Palestine Entries: Everyday people

// Entry #39

Although under occupation, siege, and the steady threat of invasion, Palestinians in the Gaza Strip must continue with their everyday lives.

A Palestinian man sits in the shade of his storefront in central Gaza City.

In the Sabra neighborhood of Gaza City, Kareem sits with his father and brother during a family visit.

A Palestinian student holds one of two images of his brother currently detained in Israel’s Nafha Prison. Hussain Mustafa Al-Loh is serving a 99-year prison term without ever being formally indicted. His family, like many families in Gaza and elsewhere, await his return. [Read more...]

The Palestine Entries: Letters to Gaza with love

// Entry #38

Towards the end of my stay in Gaza, I was granted permission to tour the Qattan Centre for the Child, a beautiful educational institute that offers cultural activities, book rentals, youth mentors, and a warm environment for the children and families of the besieged Gaza Strip. The center boasts various public attractions including a growing library, computer stations, and rooms displaying themed artwork.

One particular room caught my attention. Under the title “To Gaza with Love” dangled dozens of letters of support sent to Gaza from all around the world. Some letters dated back to 2009 while others were signed as recently as May 2011. This is only a small sampling of the collection.

[Read more...]

The Palestine Entries: Photos of fire, stoves, and food in Gaza

// Entry #37

Food plays a big role in Palestinian culture and identity. Even though the Gaza Strip faces a siege and blockade that prevents many key ingredients from reaching restaurants and homes, many Palestinians find a way to preserve the staple food items, meals, and cooking etiquette that define Gazan cuisine. Famous restaurants like Palmera and Al-Thailandi feature fine dining at an affordable price as well as wholesome sandwiches for customers on the go. Street stands offer juices, breads, salads, and sandwiches made in the most entertaining ways. Every meal is an experience in and of itself.

Here is a small sampling of what food looks and tastes like in Gaza City. Sahtein!

Behind the counter at Al-Thailandi, a restaurant in Gaza City’s Remal district known for its Thailand-style stir-fry. To the right are three prepared chicken stir-fry sandwiches, coincidentally called “pizzas”. The manager consults his phone while preparing an order.

Facing flames, a chef at Al-Thailandi adds ingredients to the stir-fry mix. [Read more...]

The Palestine Entries: Marrying in Gaza

// Entry #36

The summer is marriage season in Palestine, and Gaza City has a lot to show for it.

It is perfectly reasonable to assume that at least one person from your extended family or immediate neighborhood is getting married on any given day. With well over 50% of the population under the age of 25, families are regularly hosting marriage ceremonies or attending them. In fact, marriage is so commonplace that it has inevitably become the butt of almost every joke made by men under the age of 40. And if it isn’t being joked about, it’s used as a tool of coercion.

A perfect example, spoken from the mouth of a relative: “So Sami, I know she’s your cousin and all but she comes from a great family, ours, and you’ll have lots of kids.”

“No.”

But the tradition and cultural significance surrounding marriage in the Gaza Strip is no laughing matter. As chaotic, plentiful, and free-spirited as it may seem, the process of getting married is highly structured and follows the same general patterns. The spectacular part of it all is being able to attend three in one night. [Read more...]

The Palestine Entries: Escaping Rafah, a border story

// Entry #35

I use the word ‘escaping’ because that’s exactly what it felt like. Leaving Gaza, exiting through the notorious Rafah crossing — an experience that only adds to the plight of the Palestinian.

Upon arriving to the Gaza Strip, we were advised to sign up for an exit pass as soon as possible. Days later, we traveled to the Interior Ministry to bargain, quite literally, for an exit date. Our flights back to the United States were scheduled for July 18; we needed to be out of Gaza and inside Cairo’s airport half a day earlier. We produced photocopy evidence of our employment schedules, our school certificates, our American birth certificates, anything we could use to convince the guards that we needed to be out, safe and secure, by mid-July.

Jostling with others to keep her position in front of the guard’s safety-window, my mother managed to secure exit passes for July 14. If anything were to go wrong during our travels, there was still time after July 14 to attempt again to exit the territory. Just days into our trip to Palestine and we were already forced to formulate escape strategies.

Four weeks later, our time in Gaza came to a close. On July 14, we lugged our suitcases to a waiting taxi. It was 6 a.m. and we had to beat the crowd. [Read more...]

The Palestine Entries: Shooting the messenger, a tribute to Palestinian journalist Fadel Shana’a

// Entry #34

A tribute to Fadel Shana’a, Reuters journalist
1984/85 to 2008

Fadel Shana’a was only 23 years old when his body was pierced by metal darts. Working for Reuters as a cameraman, Fadel ‘s enthusiasm, bravery, and dedication to a life of honest reporting compelled him to be at the scene of an attack even as it unfolded. The footage he captured validated the use of the terms “violent” and “systematic” when describing Israel’s occupation, specifically his final seconds of footage.

On 16 April 2008, Fadel and an accompanying Reuters soundman made their way to the site of an ongoing tank shelling. Standing alongside a silver Mitsubishi SUV labeled in bright red with the words “Press” and “TV”, Fadel focused his camera lens on an Israeli tank in the distance. As he slowly zoomed out, the tank fired a flechette shell that within moments hit near his location. This was the second time he was targeted by Israeli troops. The first was in a 2006 air strike that left him bleeding but alive.

This time, unfortunately, Fadel was not so lucky. The impact of the tank missile threw the camera to the ground and blacked the screen. High velocity shrapnel tore Fadel’s body into pieces. He died at the scene while his soundman survived with severe injuries. Two passing men were also killed by the attack. (His final footage can be found at the end of this article.) [Read more...]

The Palestine Entries: Gazan home converted into Israeli hospital, playpen

// Entry #33

Homes damaged during Israel's air and land assault on the Gaza Strip

The G. family, abbreviated per request, lived in a wide two-story building in the Zaytun district of Gaza City, one of the first areas to be invaded by land after Israel’s aerial bombardment of the Gaza Strip in late 2008, early 2009. Columns of tanks and bulldozers crawled through the neighborhood’s streets and walls, and low-flying helicopters monitored the destruction from above.

The family remained indoors, startled by the mobilization of a foreign military in front of their doorsteps but not necessarily afraid of the situation in its full magnitude. They had gotten used to the buzzing of drones and the explosions of missile barrages in and around their neighborhood. According to Deena, in her teens at the time, the family’s primary concern was to avoid windows and any exposed or open-air parts of the house. Helicopters and snipers were said to be targeting anything that moves. [Read more...]

The Palestine Entries: Photos of Gaza City’s Mina and Flotilla memorial

// Entry #32

The Mina is one of the Gaza Strip’s most beautiful coastal stretches, featuring Gaza City’s main port, a small fish market, a memorial for the Turkish nationals murdered on the Mavi Marmara headed to Gaza, and a series of relatively elegant hotels frequented by foreigners and young Palestinian men and women wishing to escape the noise and the commotion of the city surrounding them. It’s not spatially large nor is it always open to the public but it is a landmark in Gaza that merits publicity.

This marble monument stands in memory of the nine Turkish individuals killed during Israel’s raid of the Mavi Marmara during the first global Freedom Flotilla. Each panel features one of the nine names as well as a Turkish flag alongside a Palestinian flag, symbolizing the strength of international solidarity and celebrating their lives as honorary Palestinians.

Immediately to the side of the marble memorial is this set of flags. Turkish flags line much of Gaza’s coasts and can even be found taped onto store windows, hanging from rearview mirrors, and waving at the front entrance of many restaurants. [Read more...]

The Palestine Entries: Footage of Israeli Navy relentlessly attacking activists on sinking boat

// Entry #31

After thirty posts in thirty days, I’m writing from Chicago again. My adventures in Palestine have come to an end but there are hundreds of photographs yet to be shown and dozens of stories that deserve to be told. The Palestine Entries will continue to be published until my duty to report on the reality of life in Gaza is completed in full.

That said, I’d like to direct your attention back toward the coast of Gaza City where there has been a noticeable increase in international interest lately due to the Gaza-bound Flotilla movements and the steady naval attacks against Palestinian fishermen. A number of earlier posts reference these attacks against fishermen, young and old, but until today, I’ve been unable to find authentic footage of the kind of arbitrary punishment these fishermen face on a regular basis.

This video shows an Israeli Navy gunship attacking an international activist group with a high powered water canon. The video was filmed by volunteers with the Civil Peace Service stationed in Gaza, an organization that monitors the safety and human rights of Gaza’s fishermen. [Read more...]

The Palestine Entries: What it means to heal when there’s nothing to heal with

// Entry #30

The current healthcare system in the Gaza Strip is notorious for its limitations in resources and space, a direct consequence of a siege that prohibits most medicines and equipment from reaching hospitals and health clinics throughout the territory. It isn’t entirely evident at first, but tour any public healthcare facility — most private ones, too — and the fragility of Gaza’s healthcare infrastructure becomes impossible to ignore. Al-Shifa Hospital, Gaza’s largest, provides the clearest understanding of what it means to heal when there’s nothing to heal with.

Al-Shifa’s burn unit is the medical complex’s newest wing, funded in full by international donors. It is by all accounts the hospital’s cleanest and most well-stocked department, featuring its own set of IV lines and a designated ICU room for the most severe cases. Seasoned physicians treat patients in rooms containing standard hospital beds, wash basins, and medicine cabinets. After treatment, patients are moved to adjacent rooms arranged with two beds, empty drawers, and a television. [Read more...]

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